European Waterways’ Spirit of Scotland: Our Luxury Barge Journey in the Highlands
We’re recollecting gliding across the legendary Loch Ness in the heart of the Scottish Highlands aboard the Spirit of Scotland – a five-star barge navigating the Caledonian Canal. It feels like something out of a dream. The sun is shining (almost magical in Scotland), and the enormity of Loch Ness is something you can only fully appreciate by sailing through it. The scenery is breathtaking, and the sense of peace is beyond compare. European Waterways has nailed the art of luxury barge travel with over 40 years sailing and serving.
The Beginning
Our cruise director picked us up in Inverness with the only other couple aboard, from Kentucky. Every other week in the season had all cabins filled, but we had a very intimate experience on the spacious barge. Olivia delivered us in minutes to Muirtown’s marina with a welcoming crew of six and a champagne toast. Then our hosts led us downstairs to our cabin where our luggage awaited.
We travel with minimal expectations, so we are never disappointed but here, we expected very cramped quarters and were pleasantly surprised. More navigable than anticipated, the twin beds joined together were comfy without an annoying seam and there was space for all our stuff with attention to organization. We quickly unpacked and grabbed umbrellas by the door to explore the surroundings on a misty day.
Along the way we chatted with locals walking their dogs by the waters’ edge of Moray and Beauly Firths. We recognized Kessock Bridge, having seen it last year from Castle Stuart Golf Course and sang, “We’ve seen Kessock from both sides now.” On our path back, we encountered the pilot out for a stroll and quickly developed an affinity for Krishna.
Our Crew
Cruise Director – Olivia
Captain Liv has worked nearly every role in multiple countries, except piloting. Now she leads the team with effortless grace through a week free of hiccups.
The Pilot – Krishna
The most fascinating human on the boat. A voice-over artist, actor, vintner, former theater manager in London, and founder of a cricket club (whose honorary president is Mick Jagger!). Krishna has piloted hot air balloons, and barges for decades and with many a tale to share, he’s mentoring the next generation of pilots with wisdom: “The less you do, the better it works out.”
The Deckhand – Tom
From Ipswitch like his sister, Liv, he inherited her same knack for retelling history. Ever helpful with readying bikes, the spa, handling the ropes or apprenticing as helmsman, he exhibits a kind demeanor.
The Hosts – Sara Lou and Lauren
Sarah Lou with an esprit de vivre never stopped smiling and never will wine and cheese have such a seductive tableside introduction as when delivered with her French accent. Lauren ensures you do not miss a tea or another bit of bread, with her lovely British lilt. Their duties are endless and they complete them tirelessly.
The Chef – Jim
Appearing shy with few words, Jim was indubitably the star of the show displaying a culinary prowess with Michelin artistry. Fully Scottish, having studied in Jersey, Chef Jim set the gastronomical stage for the cruise, first describing the week (with champagne and canapes) and serving a braised beef dinner that blew us away. He did warn in his introduction (with champagne and canapes) that his goal was to make our clothes not fit by the cruise’s conclusion. He’s an over achiever. A slate with the day’s menu was placed on the bar along with a slate of the day’s activities. Jim is a wizard at concocting gourmet meals with special sauces, mysterious microgreens and irresistible desserts. His foraging and flavor composition made every morsel brilliant.
Our Barge
The Spirit of Scotland is a hotel barge curated to capture the timeless elegance of traditional Scottish steamers. Designed for an intimate and luxurious experience, it welcomes up to 12 guests in six stylish, air-conditioned cabins located below the main deck. Each cabin features its own en-suite shower/bathroom and three sizeable portholes – perfect for watching the scenery drift by at water level.
The captain’s bridge sits front and center on the main deck, with an open-air walkway around the front. Behind the pilot’s area, living spaces unfold generously – from the cozy open bar, game corner, and plush seating to the dining room with its grand windows, all the way to the back deck with comfortable chairs and a heated spa pool.
A spiral staircase leads to the top deck – our favorite, most expansive viewing area. Here you can strike the iconic “Titanic” pose at the rail (with a far happier ending), or recline under a blanket as the Scottish Highlands float past.
While the route is professionally navigated, you can count on getting lost. Lost in your thoughts as you sit on the top deck with the breeze in your hair. Lost in the marvel of the Highlands’ raw beauty. And yet, you may find something too – perhaps perspective, a renewed appreciation for life, or even a quiet reset of your goals and purpose. Such is the effect of being aboard the Spirit of Scotland.
Daily Cruises
First to Dochgarroch
“Make ready, Tom,” Krishna signals the start of the cruise, and we’re all excited for take-off. We back out, passing other moored boats in the marina as the Tomnahurich bridge swings open for us. Commuter cars wait while pedestrians wave as we glide through to our first flight of locks. It would be the first of many, and it never got old – chatting with the lockkeepers and watching the pet parades (mostly border collies and terriers).
Kathy, our first lockkeeper stood out in her wetproof orange jumpsuit. She was in her fourth year and loving every minute, vowing never to return to her post office job.
Locks are feats of engineering that have stood the test of time, far outperforming many newer alternatives. Timing is key: the operation must be set in motion just right to lock and the gates, allowing the water levels to change and lift or lower boats on the canal. Conversations spark between boaters as we wait or share the lock. The barge is slow while time speeds by. We were in for a heavenly week.
Second to Fort Augustus
After a morning walk along the parallel river and a bike ride to spot the shaggy Highland “hairy coos,” we cruised all afternoon through Loch Dochfour and across Loch Ness to Fort Augustus. Purple heather waved from the hills between the woodlands, with occasional ancient ruins, including the spectacular Urquhart Castle. There Krishna pirouetted our Spirit of Scotland in salute so we could fully absorb its splendor. Four hours zipped by with postcard-perfect views at every turn.
Third to Kytra
We loved the lively town of Fort Augustus, with its bustling shops and pubs along the flight of lochs – and the flights of birds of prey at The Highland Club. Originally built in 1720 by order of General Wade as a fort by the locks (due to galleons), it later became a Benedictine Monastery, then St. Benedictine’s Abbey. As history played out its complicated and sordid chapters, it eventually closed and is now a sought-after private residence complex.
It was a spectacular backdrop for the interactive bird demonstration. A hefty glove protected those brave enough for the birds of prey to alight on their arm. First came Dougie, a six-year-old South American barn owl with inquisitive eyes and velvety-soft head feathers which he liked to have petted. Who would have thought? Next came Harris the hawk, then Angus who surprised everyone by landing not just on arms but on our heads! We personally encountered each with a tad bit of trepidation and hearts full of wonder. A Eurasian eagle preceded the grand finale: a regal bald eagle, 24 years old, and originally from an Australian zoo. Heavy and majestic, he scanned the sky with a mighty beak and piercing eyes. Meeting a bald eagle’s gaze as it rests on your arm is a moment you’ll never forget, while trying to transfer the thought: “I’m not food.”
People have questioned whether our pictures were photoshopped or AI-generated – but they’re real. Really real and really cool for indelible memories.
We shared this incredible experience with “Portlanders” from Oregon, aboard Spirit of Scotland’s sister barge, The Scottish Highlander, piloted by another Frenchman, Captain Daniel. Our ships shared the Fort Augustus lock, passing in opposite directions at the halfway point for each trip. Hats off to the pilots navigating such narrow passages. We docked for the night in nearby Kytra.
Fourth to Laggan
There was a short section reaching the lock at Leviothan, so we walked alongside the canal, admiring wildflowers and grazing livestock. We met an 89-year-old lady backpacking solo, looking for a café in what was probably the most remote appearing spot of our route. We assured her Fort Augustus had it all. Later our barge mates said she waved and shouted something like “stay alive!” – or maybe she was singing, Stayin’ Alive. Either way, her daughters track her phone to ensure she’s still kicking.
While waiting for Spirit of Scotland, we helped the “ginger family” from England – a redheaded family of four, plus a red dog – manage their ropes through the lock. Bikes and wetsuits in tow, they were off on their weeklong canal holiday. We reboarded after the lock and set sail to Laggan, with a little Monet scenery along the way.
Fifth to Banavie
Our final day was perhaps the most precious, simply because it was the last cruise. We crossed Loch Lochy to Gairlochy, rejoined the canal, and continued through Moy Bridge to our final mooring near Fort William, beneath Ben Nevis, the highest peak in Great Britain. Just steps away was the famed Neptune’s Staircase: a dramatic set of eight locks enabling passage from the North Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. But alas, we were docked and done, but for the van returning us to Inverness. It was a wonderful roadside review of many of the sights we had passed during the week – herds, heathered hills, and lovely Loch Lochy. How lucky we were.
The Castles
There are castles – and then there’s Cawdor Castle, with gardens to rival the very best, like Butchart Gardens in Victoria, British Colombia. Cawdor was immortalized by Shakespeare’s Macbeth and featured in scenes from various film adaptations.
And then there’s Eileen Donan, the most photographed in Scotland, made famous by movies like The Highlander and James Bond’s The World is Not Enough. The minibus rides to each location were a scenic extension of the Highlands’ natural mosaic – woodlands, wildflowers and herds of sheep, swine, and the iconic hairy coos.
Cultural Excursions
Culloden Battlefield brought the history of kings, queens and Jacobites to life in dramatic and moving fashion. Later we stopped at the mystical standing stones that inspired Outlander, the belovedbook and popular TV series featuring Claire, aka “Sassenach,” and Jamie, her time-traveling Highlander love.
Returning to the Spirit of Scotland we were treated like royalty – grateful not to be transported to the hardships of earlier centuries.
At the Dalwhinnie Distillery, built in 1898, we learned that “Dalwhinnie” means “meeting place.” It’s the highest, coldest distillery in Scotland but the mash room was steamy, the educational tasting tour engaging. Interestingly, it is now owned by Diageo – the same company that owns Bulleit in Kentucky, where we visited back in May. Cue the tune: “It’s a small world, after all.”
Our Surprises
Each day brought new surprises, carefully orchestrated by Liv. Guess what awaits today – creative hand-crafted cocktails or mocktails? Scottish guests in full regalia? Let’s play dress-up with Ian in ancient garb. Alan, the kilt maker and bagpiper joked as he explained the instrument, the clans, and the sporran which he quipped is “a job offer.”
Sean and Hannah delighted us with jigs, reels, and a dance lesson. On request, they sang the theme from Outlander – “Sing me a song of a lass that is gone…” Inspired by their artistry, the thespian in Krishna emerged with an eloquent soliloquy to cap off the evening.
After a castle tour, Liv stopped for chocolate treats – whether you’d spotted the ceramic cat and mice, staged in the castle’s kitchen, or not. And at every meal, another surprise awaited: a competitive tablescape, perhaps a seascape with shells, fungi or florals, and always with creatively folded napkins. The finale? Tuxedo shaped napkins at the captain’s dinner.
Precious moments abounded aboard the Spirit of Scotland.
Spirit of Scotland
The Spirit of Scotland embodied the spirit of travelers. As we met other boaters along the way, we were grateful this barge was our home for the week.
Every lock was a reminder of how Dad “surprised” Mom each anniversary with a visit to the Eisenhower Locks on the St. Lawrence Seaway. We had just one lock experience during our 12 year lake house restoration in New York – on the Erie Canal, but we were known on the lake as the couple who spent the most time on the water.
This week? It was like our own perpetual pontoon ride on steroids, but with a crew of six, just for us. All chill; all joy.
New Language
We learned a few Scottish words on our voyage such as “bonnie” for pretty, which described every single day, rain or shine. Gaelic, we learned, is pronounced with a soft “a” in Scotland, and a hard “a” in Ireland. But it’s all gay as in merry. And a typical Scottish morning greeting? Just “Mornin’” (no “good” required) because they’ll “see how it goes.”
Aboard the Spirit of Scotland, it was all good.
The Scots shorten some words, so “thank you” sounds like “akya.” To the esteemed crew of the Spirit of Scotland, we say “akya” from our hearts and souls, for making our third trip to Scotland the most magical yet.
New Standard
Chef Jim is now our new measure of food. “That’s yummy – but is it Jim-good or just delicious?”
This journey raised the bar for measuring future trips. The five-star, all-inclusive, floating hotel with attentive staff, stunning scenery, and fabulous excursions was among the best in our 17 years of travel writing, across hundreds of destinations in over 32 countries.
Maybe the best.
Golf Charters
Private whole barge golf cruises are available. on many of the European Waterway barges and include 3-4 tee offs and at least four passengers must be playing golf. Non-golf players are welcome to join, of course! And there are plenty of options for them to do instead (follow the original Classic Cruise itinerary plan, explore at leisure on foot or on one of the barge bicycles, or something else to suit their interests which can be discussed at the time of booking).
Scottish Highlands Golf might include Cabot Highlands’ Stuart Castle Golf Course or Fortrose and Rosemarkie Golf Course among others, depending on the timing of the cruise.
Charters are also available in Ireland, France and more. Contact www.europeanwaterways.com for a trip of a lifetime with fellow golfers, family and friends.