For months we watched you tube channels daily for updates on volcanic eruptions and fissures in Iceland, which evacuated the entire town of Grindavik. Would the airport close like in 2010? Would we be able to achieve Danny’s dream of playing in the Arctic Open? Yes, we played in the Arctic Open in the northern town of Akureyri (AK) and thanks to Arni Hallgrimsson with Golf Expedition Iceland, we experienced a bit of everything in the Land of Fire and Ice.
The Golden Circle passes by the geysers steaming high into the air on ten minute or more frequent intervals with the glaciers in the far background. The Gullfoss Falls flowed powerfully through the land above the point where the Viking chieftains met for the first world’s parliament around 930ad and for 800 years, they met every 4 years thereafter.
The Golf Courses are plentiful with over 70 designs, ten of which are truly fantastic. Jack Nicklaus noted there is more golf played in Iceland than most places in the world because they play 24 hours a day in the summertime.
Keiler is often rated the best, a brilliant green beauty by the sea. Also seaside, Westman Island Golf Club is reached by a 45-minute ferry ride, with or without your car. The clubhouse is new, the course condition is prime, the pace is perfect, and the views are astounding. Several holes are waterside with elephant shapes in the tall cliff rocks down to the water. It is a fun hilly workout pushing a trolley, especially on 13’s long monster, par 5. Lucky lava rock shots may provide relief from balls lost in the grass or water.
Westman Island boasts the most puffins (fat little birds with round orange beaks) on the planet. The Volcano Open, another amateur competition is hosted here in July by Karl Haraldsson. Golfers tee off on Friday at 4pm and Saturday at noon with a shotgun format followed by dinner, a concert and party with the midnight sun.
The Golf Club of Grindavik was a huge thrill to play, having just reopened 13 holes. As GM Helgi explained, the last five by the water were still closed due to the open fissures. It is a bit tough managing right now given the bad publicity of the eruptions and government warnings that the town is unstable. The government is buying homes at fair market value and yet because of thermal scans of the course, allowed Helgi to reopen. He asked, “How many employees do you think we have?” Only himself and he is doing a fine job, working the clubhouse and maintaining the course.
To reach the course, Arni drove us past manned barricades with permission, and at one point the roadside was smoking from the lava flow beneath. It was eerie to see the ghost town which was a thriving fishing village not long ago. Were we stupid? People in AK thought so but one woman we met while bathing in the Forest Lagoon, had moved back in her home while her son took the buyout and moved to Reykjavik. Safety in the area is a controversial subject. On the course, we saw smoke from the volcano which ten days prior was spouting red lava and we saw steam rising from the famous blue lagoon nearby which has continually closed and reopened due to volcanic activity. We can’t in good conscience promote going there but we emphatically enjoyed our experience and obviously lived to talk about it.
The Arctic Open, sponsored by Iceland Air,is held at the Akureyri Golf Club during Summer Solstice, highlighting play though the midnight sun. Danny has always wanted to participate in it, so we made it a reality for an early “big birthday” present.
Years before, promo pictures showed golfers in shorts and short sleeves but NOT this year. We packed all our layers in the closet, and they came in handy. The practice round was so cold and rainy that we played only seven holes and drove by the rest to see the layout, in awe of the incredible scenery.
We splurged on a king room at Hotel Kea, right downtown in AK, by the marina. The interior was nicely designed by Arni’s dad, and the bedroom was blacked out which comes in handy for a restful sleep when the sun never sets. Rub 23 was recommended for dinner and our salmon and lamb did not disappoint. When we popped into the bar across the street to watch a Euro football match, the server was none other than Jón who we had met maintaining the AK golf course earlier.
The opening ceremony next day at the clubhouse featured a feast of finger foods that were delish. We weren’t sure what all we were eating but loved every bite. Registration included warm logoed sweaters, balls, tees and a certificate for the Forest Lagoon. First round tee times followed from noon to eleven pm for 285 players, the largest turnout in history. 120 were on the waiting list and some say that Obama wanted to get in one year and could not.
We teed off at 3:40pm, playing with Eygló Birgisdóttir and Guõlaug María Ósaksdóttir, pronounced like Igloo and Ghoulah. They are on the board of the Club, so they kindly provided course and local knowledge. Our play was not stellar but with handicapping and stableford scoring, you never know. The scenery on the other hand was spectacular with florals in the foreground and peaks topped with whipped cream in the background. Hot chocolate with an optional spike was a warm relief on 14 before the uphill par 3.
The second day we played with Valur Magnusson and Kristín Björnsdottir, a couple who were also members and live in the same, close high rise apartment building as Eygló where they can see the whole course and who is playing. Robotic mowers are working all over the course, managed by lighted controls and courteous of golfers. Teeing off at 6:30 pm brought us to the 18th par 3 just in time to watch the midnight sun turn around the snowcapped mountain. It was a marvel to watch, especially since it had been cloudy all day.
The closing ceremony on day three treated golfers to a beautiful buffet of lamb and glazed turkey with many sides and Icelandic sweets. Four categories of huge trophies and other small prizes were presented as an emcee delivered hilarious jokes which we could not understand as they were delivered in Icelandic. The laughter however was contagious. He then converted to a musician and the party continued there and downtown to the early hours for some. It was a fabulous event and a great check mark, but truly, a tiny piece of what Iceland has to offer.
The Lagoon Spas capture geothermal waters that run beneath Iceland and serve as sustainable electricity. The Blue Lagoon is most well-known but evolved from a malfunction of the power plant whereas numerous lagoon spas have opened for bathing in natural warm water with ethereal esthetics. Sky Lagoon in Reykjavik and Forest Lagoon in AK are the best, with infinity edges overlooking the ocean in the south and the fjord through the trees in the north. “Where are you from?” begins enlightening conversations with other bathers. Sky Lagoon includes towels and has a ritual option of a cold pool plunge followed by a silent sauna with a view, a body scrub, steam sauna, shower, and back to the thermal waters with swim up bars for hydration or libations. It’s a decadent way to break up a day.
The Animal Attractions are profound with Icelandic horses exceeding the population of people. They are the only equestrian breed allowed in the country and come in all horse colors and markings with distinct bushy manes. June is baby season when little foals frolic in the pastures and hills while the adults are necking or lazing. They are seen in every pasture with many opportunities to ride and are a prized export.
Sheep are almost as abundant, roaming free from May to September when they are rounded up and sheared for the wool that makes all apparel and accessories. Little lamb twins rub heads and run about, but mostly the herds graze the grass in the valleys and mountains until they are sheered for wool and/or make a menu. Whale tours depart from Reykjavik or AK harbors to see mainly minkes which also appear on some menus tasting like beef. They are mammals after all.
The Capital Reykjavik is a walkable city with many sites to visit. The harbor is busy with all kinds of boats. The Royalty of Denmark anchored while we were there with a swordsman guarding the grand ship. Up the hill, the Hallgrímskirkja Church has the largest organ which plays most times of the day. Up and down, the streets are lined with shops for woolen goods and restaurants serving excellent cuisine. Iceland gets a bad rap for crazy food like fermented seal that is not on any menu we saw. The fresh variety of white fishes (halibut, flounder, blueling, cod, haddock) and salmon are prepared in delectable ways as are the many lamb concoctions. This is a foodie destination for sure and the prices are not as high as we expected. Given our skyrocketed US inflation and the zero-tipping expectation there, Icelandic food costs are comparable. Their yogurt or “skyr” is a healthy breakfast alternative and for lunch or dinner, a restaurant meal may be swapped for a visit to a hot dog stand. Beer is cheap, while wine and spirits are pricier and their water, the best in the world is free, right from any tap or stream.
The Superb Scenery is a reason all by itself to visit Iceland, the land of contrasts, from the sea to the mountains and long glacier down to the valleys. Fields of purple lupines are everywhere, mixing with other spring blooms in June for a botanical bonanza. Experience geysers, ice caves, volcanoes, salmon rivers. We road for four hours from Reykjavik to AK and back, contented watching the animal antics as the waterfalls drained snow from the mountains to crystal clear rivers teeming with fish.
The Peaceful People in Iceland are not outgoingly friendly like the Irish, but they are very engaging when spoken to first. They kindly correct pronunciation of Icelandic words which are difficult without studying. Arni advised us not to bother since everyone knows at least a little English. All are very happy to see sunshine when it appears. They gathered at the American Bar by the park where families picnicked, and young men removed their shirts to tan and tried their best at handstands. Euro soccer stole the screens when we were hoping to watch the US Open but the cultural entertainment was better.
The Journey Summary is that while we covered so much in a week, we would happily return for more golf and spots to explore. If we can figure out Iceland Air’s stopover program (up to one week in Iceland when connecting elsewhere in Europe), we shall do just that. Other airlines that reach Reykjavik are West Jet, Play and Delta. Iceland is a spot unlike anywhere on the planet. www.golfexpeditionsiceland.is
